Lately, I have been seeing quite a lot of sewists make their own underwear, and it’s really inspiring me-however there’s one detail that I don’t want to include in my me-made underwear: elastic.
If you’ve ever made underwear earlier than, you probably know that many ending strategies for the legholes and waistline embody elastic, either fold-over elastic, picot, or even braided elastic encased in fabric. I don’t find out about you, however none of my prepared-to-put on underwear have elastic in the legs-and sometimes they don’t within the waist both. This is the kind of underwear I like finest.
So, the place does this depart me? I’m not a fan of elastic in my underwear because it feels too restrictive, but I need to make my very own underwear. This is the place knit bands come into play for me. I’m going to indicate you learn how to swap elastic for a knit band to complete your underwear!
– Tape measure
– Extra paper
The right way to Draft and Sew a Knit Band
Let’s do this.
Make sure your fabric meets the stretch requirements said within the pattern you’re utilizing. I’m making the Sophie Hines Median Knickers pattern, and it requires 50%-75% stretch.
If you’re utilizing a Seamwork sample, it includes a stretch information that will help you see if the fabric you need to use has sufficient stretch in it. In case you have almost any concerns regarding exactly where in addition to the way to make use of knitted elastic webbing elastic band (csgrid.org), it is possible to call us in the website. Here are some Seamwork patterns you should utilize:
– The Geneva panties are a traditional choice, especially if you would like to make use of stretch lace.
– The Kaye shorts are excellent for biker-quick style underwear.
– The Dana underwear would work properly with a knit band instead of elastic.
– The brand new (and free!) Flo interval underwear. You can also make these without the absorbent fabric if you wish to make a comfy pair of everyday underwear.
Cut your pattern out and sew collectively all the essential items. Here is my constructed garment except for woven elastic webbing the leg holes and waist.
Measure the leg opening and waistline that will help you determine how lengthy your knit bands need to be. My leg holes turned out to be 27 1/2 inches, and my waist is 34 1/2 inches. Next, I should do some math.
Ugh, math!? I know-it’s not my favorite, however we obtained this!
You want some math as a result of for those who lower the knit band the identical length because the leg hole or waistline, it won’t have the stretch to imitate the elastic finish. You want to search out the perfect amount of unfavourable ease in your knit band to remain in place and match securely-but comfortably-to your physique.
I consulted with Wallis, our patternmaker-and the queen of knits-right here at Seamwork, and she advised me to observe a simple equation when making knit bands for closures. Make the knit band 90% of the full circumference of the opening.
I would like to emphasize that 90% is a suggestion and a very good place to start out! Depending in your fabric’s recovery, you could have to do some testing to get the best circumference. You can all the time baste your band to your underwear to verify the match first.
So, since my leg hole is 27 1/2 inches, my equation is: 27.5 x .9 = 24.75. I reduce my leg bands at 24 3/four inches.
My waist measured 34 1/2 inches, my equation is: 34.5 x .9 = 31. I lower my waistband at 31 inches.
I want my bands to be a bit wider, so I reduce them 2 inches large, but you may make them a bit narrower or wider. Try to not go beneath 1 1/2 inches or over 2 1/2 inches. For those who reduce your bands too narrow, they might have some extra bulk on the seam allowance. Should you lower them too extensive, you will have problems fitting your gusset.
Sew the two brief ends of your knit band collectively. Press the seam to at least one aspect. Helpful trace: If you’re using a serger, use just one needle to chop down on bulk when serging.
Press the band in half lengthwise.
With incorrect sides together, baste the uncooked edge.
With right sides collectively, pin the knit band evenly alongside the leg hole. You’ll have to stretch the knit band as you go.
A trick to evenly pinning the band is to mark your band in quarters. Then, mark your leghole and waistline in quarters. Stretch to match the quarter markings and pin in place, evenly distributing the band.
Using a serger or jacquard elastic webbing a zigzag stitch, sew the knit band to the underwear at 3/eight inch. Stretch the knit band as you go to ease it in. You possibly can see this in action on this video tutorial for adding a knit band on our YouTube channel.
Press the seam allowance in the direction of the underwear and topstitch with a slender zigzag to hold the seam allowance in place.
Now repeat that very same process in your different leg hole and waistband and marvel on the no-elastic undies you just made! Great job!
Taylor has an eye for design. As the Product Manager for Seamwork, she wants to make sure your on-line experiences are enjoyable and gratifying.
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