Lately, I’ve been seeing numerous sewists make their very own underwear, and it’s really inspiring me-however there’s one detail that I don’t need to incorporate in my me-made underwear: elastic.
If you’ve ever made underwear earlier than, you most likely know that many finishing strategies for the legholes and waistline embody elastic, either fold-over elastic, picot, or even braided elastic encased in fabric. I don’t find out about you, however none of my ready-to-wear underwear have knitted elastic webbing in the legs-and typically they don’t in the waist both. This is the kind of underwear I like greatest.
So, where does this go away me? I’m not a fan of elastic in my underwear as a result of it feels too restrictive, but I want to make my very own underwear. This is the place knit bands come into play for me. I’m going to show you how one can swap elastic for a knit band to finish your underwear!
– Tape measure
– Extra paper
The right way to Draft and Sew a Knit Band
Let’s do that.
Ensure your fabric meets the stretch requirements acknowledged within the sample you’re utilizing. I’m making the Sophie Hines Median Knickers sample, and it requires 50%-75% stretch.
If you’re utilizing a Seamwork pattern, it features a stretch guide to help you see if the fabric you want to use has sufficient stretch in it. If you have any questions concerning where and how to make use of jacquard elastic band (cindiseagl.jigsy.com), you could contact us at the page. Listed below are some Seamwork patterns you can use:
– The Geneva panties are a basic choice, particularly if you want to make use of stretch lace.
– The Kaye shorts are excellent for biker-quick fashion underwear.
– The Dana underwear would work well with a knit band as a substitute of elastic.
– The new (and free!) Flo period underwear. You may make these with out the absorbent fabric if you wish to make a comfy pair of everyday underwear.
Cut your pattern out and sew together all the essential pieces. Here is my constructed garment except for the leg holes and waist.
Measure the leg opening and waistline that can assist you resolve how long your knit bands should be. My leg holes turned out to be 27 1/2 inches, and my waist is 34 1/2 inches. Next, I will have to do some math.
Ugh, math!? I do know-it’s not my favourite, but we bought this!
You need some math as a result of for those who lower the knit band the same length because the leg gap or waistline, it won’t have the stretch to mimic the elastic end. You need to search out the right quantity of destructive ease on your knit band to remain in place and fit securely-however comfortably-to your body.
I consulted with Wallis, our patternmaker-and the queen of knits-right here at Seamwork, and she advised me to follow a simple equation when making knit bands for closures. Make the knit band 90% of the full circumference of the opening.
I need to emphasize that 90% is a suggestion and a superb place to start! Depending in your fabric’s recovery, you may have to do some testing to get the correct circumference. You’ll be able to at all times baste your band to your underwear to test the match first.
So, since my leg hole is 27 1/2 inches, my equation is: 27.5 x .9 = 24.75. I minimize my leg bands at 24 3/4 inches.
My waist measured 34 1/2 inches, my equation is: 34.5 x .9 = 31. I reduce my waistband at 31 inches.
I would like my bands to be a bit wider, so I minimize them 2 inches vast, however you can also make them a bit narrower or wider. Try not to go underneath 1 1/2 inches or over 2 1/2 inches. Should you reduce your bands too slender, they might need some extra bulk at the seam allowance. For those who cut them too huge, you may have problems fitting your gusset.
Sew the 2 brief ends of your knit band together. Press the seam to at least one facet. Helpful hint: If you’re using a serger, use just one needle to cut down on bulk when serging.
Press the band in half lengthwise.
With fallacious sides together, baste the uncooked edge.
With right sides together, pin the knit band evenly alongside the leg hole. You’ll have to stretch the knit band as you go.
A trick to evenly pinning the band is to mark your band in quarters. Then, mark your leghole and waistline in quarters. Stretch to match the quarter markings and pin in place, evenly distributing the band.
Using a serger or a zigzag stitch, sew the knit band to the underwear at 3/8 inch. Stretch the knit band as you go to ease it in. You may see this in motion on this video tutorial for adding a knit band on our YouTube channel.
Press the seam allowance towards the underwear and topstitch with a narrow zigzag to hold the seam allowance in place.
Now repeat that same course of on your different leg hole and waistband and marvel at the no-elastic undies you simply made! Great job!
Taylor has an eye for design. Because the Product Manager for Seamwork, she desires to verify your online experiences are enjoyable and enjoyable.
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